DIY


This offering of Teak Deck and Floor Tiles cover 10 square feet and are  “snap-in-place” are the moderately-priced style of teak from recently-harvested hardwoods. While their bog brothers, old growth teak, supplies the market with the highest quality teak wood, these more recently harvested slats are barely beneath that in terms of longevity and great handsome character. Durable beyond almost any wood choice, these gorgeous tiles offer a less expensive alternative while still providing the quality of teak wood decking one looks for.

Incredibly easy to install in a tenth the time, this system also allows one to lift and replace -  or merely lift and relocate – an entire swath – or even the entire bathroom floor or deck – at any time. Perfect for DIY installers who take pride in their home constructions, this truly pretty product has few peers. Stained and in place, the depth of color and the unmistakable appearance of teak enlivens and adds depth to any surface.

For more product information and for alternative ideas in the realm of Teak Decking, click here.

Remember the adhesive mirror tiles? Well, it’s not just on the walls that you can peel and stick tiles. If you have a clean hard floor surface, you can easily turn it into a wall-to-wall carpeting. Emphasis here being on “ease”:

Anyone can do this simple DIY project.

No need for messing around with glue or moving huge cumbersome carpets and properly fitting them into a room. Nope. These carpet tiles are so much easier. Just work on your floor, one square at a time, easily peeling off the back of these tiles and fitting them one next to the other. It just doesn’t get much easier than this.

It’s creative too. With several colors available, allowing you to create carpeted patterns, you can create checkered floors with a warm touch. Perfect for renovating children’s room and adding a unique touch of your own.

These tiles come in packs of 12 pieces, each 12 by 12 inches. They are available here on Amazon, so no need to start looking for them at the shops. Simply order them and enjoy the quality fast service they provide to get these tiles right to your doorstep.

Click here for the Peel and Stick Carpet Tiles

Mirrors are a popular home decor element. They’re sleek, modern looking and can even enhance a room, making it seem larger than it is. Sometimes though, you want to avoid huge unbroken surfaces of shiny mirrors, and this is where these mirror tiles come in handy.

They are tiles in shape, but not in terms of functionality – you need to attach them to clean smooth surfaces, so you won’t be tiling a wall with them in the sense usually referred to on our blog. 4 inches by 4, they can enhance your regular tiles, and used cleverly, they can create some interesting patterns in a room. A classic for the bathroom, these come in sets of twenty and can also be used elsewhere in the house, on doors and elsewhere as well.

Check out the product page on Amazon for the current price – and have them shipped to you today

A “how to install carpet stairs?” question usually occurs regarding two almost separate fronts:  installing real carpeting and installing “carpet runners” or long rugs made especially for the purpose.  Whereas actual carpeting requires some touch and premeasuring and cutting skills, runners are often designed with premeasured allowances and allow the wood or cement of whatever stairing to show on the edges.  Needless to say, installing the runners is easiest of the tow, although both items need many of the same tools and principles for the installation.
Perhaps the most important aspect of installing either item is the need to physically “stretch” the fabric taut enough so that it will not bunch up or create any sort of dangerous or anomaly in the surface.  This is hard to stress enough.  Maintaining them rigidly in place is a close second to safety concerns because almost any slippage can result in some unfortunate events.
So one needs what is referred to as a “knee-kicker”, a tool that grabs the carpeting and allows a knee to forcefully kick the tool and thus stretch the fabric to a tight degree.  This is easily enough done but cannot be stressed enough as to its importance.  Mere hand tightening might look sufficient but it is plainly not.
The other aspect involves the correct measurement needed for the fit.  Once the measurements are reasonably accurate, we can begin.  Lying the carpeting down, one necessarily works uphill. Thankfully, one great benefit of this is that you will be working on a gentler surface for your knees. By stretching the fabric taut, we then use staples or floor tacks to secure the carpeting in place at the crotch, or the original perpendicular point at the front of the riser.  Typically, the next batch of carpet nails go just under the lip of the stair, thus leading to the next level to be stretched and then secured. Stretch again, once on the next surface and fasten.  From this point on, it is all in the details.  Repeat as often as is necessary.

With the kids at home for the summer, let’s take a look at some relevant flooring options.

Interlocking foam flooring is a marvelously durable and safe product with an incredibly wide array of possible uses. For children’s playrooms, this soft product is easy on the feet and definitely superior for those nasty and repetitive crashes kids make onto floors all over the world. It’s their job, after all! But these interlocking foam flooring items also can come in riots of colorful and kid-pleasing sections, whether put together like some interesting puzzle that attracts the eye or simply in the simplicity of an arrangement of primary colors.
But interlocking foam flooring has many other uses of interest to a homeowner as well. Their easy cleaning and easy replacement makes it an ideal “mud room” flooring, easily washable and, if damaged, simple to replace entirely. As a flooring surface for an exercise room, it aids in sensations of quiet and warmth for walking barefoot and for softening the crashing oif weights or the irritating noises concomitant with repetitive exercise in general. It’s noise suppression equals its quality as an absorbant surface, much more resistant to damage at the surface.
These floorings install in literal minutes and are stain-resistant, fireproof, noise suppressive, lightweight and waterproof. They also come in some surprising tones and colors, some even resembling wood.
Ironically, or maybe not so much, they also make a fabulous outdoor product, once again as durable as they can be and colorful. Interlocking foam flooring systems are easy on the feet and helpful, once again, with those tendencies of children to “crash and burn” while having fun.

Sorry about the break here… time to get back to blogging, and I figured we should cover some basics today -

How to measure your room for tiling.

When you want to do your own tiling in a bathroom, living room or counter top, and even for flooring or even grander projects, here’s how to measure your room for tiling:
Go ahead and take the entire space into consideration.  It often helps to make yourself a diagram on paper with some very specific notations about where cuts will be made.  These allow for fixtures to be applied, electrical devices and plugs, switches and the rest. On the paper, notate your larger wall dimensional measurements at the outermost limits first.  On the diagram, place these numbers where they belong.
Now, any variations need to be considered.  If the room is perfectly square or rectangular, then you are basically done.  But if there are odd shapes and sizes, the best way to approach these areas is one at a time.  Any variation, such as a small boxy area, should be dealt with on its own. Segment the areas to be measured and approach each one of them individually.  In the end, the total area will be a compilation of all these factors.
Triangular or circular spaces actually require some math formulae for perfect measuring.  Just the same, one can arrive at an accurate rendition by the following:
For right triangles, make what would be a square shape by extending the area to exactly match the existing one.  In other words, let the angular line bisect the rectangle.  Then what you have is a perfect rectangle and you will need half of that. Circular is a bit more problematic.  One way to handle something circular is to literally treat it as flat.  The height is a no brainer, but measure the curving arc.  Treat it essentially like a flat surface. This, while informal and somewhat inexact, will still reveal a number that will closely resemble, at worst, what the truest number will be,

While on the topic of laminate flooring, I figured a quick DIY tip is a good topic for one more blog post!

Repairing laminate flooring is reasonable simple in the end and follows some sensible methodology.  However, unfortunately, inasmuch as laminate flooring clicks into place like a jig saw and receives its strength from just that interlocking nature, it may require a substantial amount of removal and replacement to really fix things.  For example, the most common and most recommendable manner of fixing it involved removing all the interlocked laminate flooring pieces which extend inwards from the outer edge.  Thus, it is a process of removing all strips leading to the affected area.

Thus, simple as it may seem in principle, it can be one big pain to fix them, owing to the sheer volume of what needs to be undone just to get to the area desiring a replacement board or two.  Nevertheless, since they are a simple fix, from the standpoint of complexity, it is pretty easy to do.

Start at the closest edge by a wall and remove the molding.  Make sure you don’t break the moulding either, lol.  Careful!

From this point, it is your standard average simple matter of separating the boards which interlock until you take out enough to arrive at your desired fixable area. Hopefully, you will have the correct-colored and sized boards in your hot hand to replace the damaged one.  From here, we just rebuild, going once again, wall-wards.  When finished, tack the molding back in place and you have your newer, better floor!

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